I have a Fort Knox safe that has an S&G electronic lock. It appears to be working fine however I noticed something that I would like to see if you may know if it is normal. If I open the safe on a regular weekly basis as soon as I enter the code the lock will make TWO short electronic noises and then I turn the wheel to open the safe. If I do not open the safe for about a month, the electronic lock will only make ONE short electronic noise and will still open.

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If you know you screwed it up before you finsh, you can respin the dial 4 times and start over. Turn the key back to its original orientation, settting the new combination. Don't do this step unless you are confident that you got it right. Remove the key. Test the combination with the door open.

I love the safe, it looks great and has performed perfectly. But how much can really go wrong with a safe? You can search alt.locksmithing for opinions on which lock to get. I'll save you the trouble - they generally recommend the dial because they've had too many calls on touchpads gone bad. If you do check out the site be forewarned, and don't get discouraged, they think that Residential Security Containers(gun safes) are a joke that are too easy to get into.

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I really don't want to throw anyone under the bus. However, I will recommend that if you are sticking with an S&G lock, don't go to the D-Drive. Stick with the 6120 lock. That's all I am going to say. The secondary drive rattle sounds like a recoil noise.

Get a very fresh, long dated alkaline battery (national brand like Duracell; no bargain batteries) and see what happens. A cheap and easy experiment. You were posting as I was typing. Too bad it is not as simple as the battery then. If it were a mechanical or solenoid issue, logic would suggest that your symptoms would be reversed, with long time inactivity being the 'difficult' electromechanical operation due to something adhering to a moving component in the solenoid or bolt. Your symptoms sure sound electrical in nature.

Gordon Digital Electronic Safe

Input your own PIN (the number you have selected) and press the ‘#’ key. Turn the knob counter clockwise and the safe will open. After entering your PIN, you have 5 seconds to turn the knob before the mechanism relocks. If it relocks, please reenter your PIN. Don’t forget to press the ‘#’ key after entering your PIN.

I mostly want the electronic lock for both my and my wifes convenience (she is not really good with combos and I want her to be able to get it open if she has to in an emergency) and of course also want supreme security (as I am spending good money). Thanks for any advice!!

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I believe the 'Group' number refers to different standards within UL Standard 768. Unfortunately, it appears that UL charges to read their standards, and I mean big $$. However, there is some explanation about what group 1 means at this site: Also some other info on this site regarding locks. I found it interesting that they (the Navy) state that weapons containsers should NOT have the X-07 or X-08 locks (which are electronic).

For operation of the control panel 4x AA batteries are needed (not included). Remove the cover on the battery compartment on the inside of the door by pushing down on the cover in the direction of the arrow to open the compartment. Insert 4x AA batteries into the compartment. Put the compartment cover back in place.

NS safes are the premium line owned and built by Liberty. One of the largest safe manufacturers. All in all, you'd probably be well served by either, even if one may have some superior features. I have read a lot about electronic locks being less secure than traditional. But I have no concrete evidence to support that assertion. I bought a traditional S&G dial w/tamper-resistant key lock built into it.

Level one is you can spin the bolts closed and then turn the dial to zero and it's locked up but can be reopened by turning the dial about 1/4 turn for quick re-access if you don't want maximum security. The second level of security is to spin the bolts closed, turn the dial to zero and use your key to lock the dial. Then you can unlock the dial with the key in an instant and just turn the dial 1/4 turn and you're in again. And the third level of security is to spin the dial beyond zero, requiring complete re-entry of combination.

To program your personal identification number (PIN) – 3 to 8 digits: 1. Press the red button on the inside of the door on the right side of the battery compartment to reset the PIN. Close the safe door and re-lock. NOTE: the override lock must be in the lock position in order for the safe to lock using PIN. Select and enter your PIN digits and then press ‘#’ to confirm your PIN.

If a pro comes calling, well, it's just a matter of how long they have to work on it. I compared Ft Knox to National Security when I bought mine and concluded that the National Security was the better safe. I don't recall the exact differences which made up my mind, but you might want to compare them if you have access to National Security in your area just to confirm the soundness of your choice.

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I certianly can't find any. And also I read on another thread sometime ago, about the electronic lock being easily defeated? I talked with someone who sells FT. Knox and he said that they are actually a higher grade than the combination. The electronic are Group 1 and the combo are group 2, and had never heard of such a thing.

Knox Vault Door and save a grand. The one HUGE advantage the electronic lock has over the dial is the fact you can easily change codes, add additional codes and delete codes. Doing so on the dial requires a locksmith but still the locksmith would know your code. Remember, a safe or valut door only buys you time. Chances are if someone is keen enough to be able to pick a digital lock, chances are they could also do a dial.

If the digital lock does not work, because of low battery, use the override key to open the safe, and replace all batteries.

For instance, a $5k TL-30 burglary rated safe earned the rating by withstanding a professional attack for 30 minutes of working time. An RSC is, what, a 5 minute rating? I'm not sure anybody knows what an RSC really is. The site really is fascinating reading. So is the Dean Safe site. Having said all that, I bought a large Liberty because the dealer offered inside delivery involving stairs and it's a good safe I could afford - and the crackheads and teenagers around here probably don't have the knowledge or patience to open it.

Let me show you how easy it is to change the Combination. The first thing you've got to do with all electronic locks is open up the door and throw the bolts out. That way even if you screw it up, you don't really screw it up.

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The first thing we do with the keypad is we hit the 'C' (clear) and then the '#' (pound/hash), we put in our existing combination which I have preset to one, two, three, four, five, six, and we hit the '#' (pound/hash) again. We're going to put in our new combination two times, I'm going to go six, five, four, three, two, one, '#' (pound/hash) six, five, four, three, two, one, '#' and we get a long warble. What's that telling us? That tells us it works great. Now let's check it. We are locked, we'll try the old combination.

HABA bv - Instruction video digital Fort knox safe Manual Fort knox safe To setup safe for initial use: 1. Remove the small black plastic cap to the left of the control panel, to expose the lock. Insert the key and turn the key counterclockwise to unlock. Next, also turn the knob counterclockwise to the ‘open lock’ symbol and pull the safe open.

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CAUTION: If an incorrect series of numbers is entered, a red light will flash and the safe will not open. Entering an incorrect PIN 3 times, will freeze the system for 20 seconds. Important: 1. If you forget your code, you can use the manual override key. DO NOT keep override key(s) in the safe.

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First off I would like to say Thank you to anyone that responds. I am going to be getting a safe for the house in a few months and have decided that Ft. Knox seem the best. I am looking at a 7241 Titan series with electronic lock and flourescent lighting with shipping from GS gun sales runs about $3800. First off I was wanting to hear people thoughts on Ft. Knox and if there is any better safe out there.

'C', one, two, three, four, five, six, '#'. Okay I got four beeps, that means that is the incorrect combination, it washed that out of its memory. Now we hit 'C', six, five, four, three, two, one, '#'. We're ready to go, we're unlocked. Now let me show you how to change the batteries. This particular lock, you turn it to the left about twenty degrees and it comes right off, and you have two nine volt batteries.

But a good safe will most likely keep kids and unsophisticated theives away from my guns. And that's what matters most to me. The S&G dial lock's combination is changed by the following steps: 1. Buy the special key, which comes with instructions, and cost me around $25. Open the lock.

The next time you open and get a double burst, pay close attention tot he sounds. Is there any delay between the bursts?

IS THIS NOT A GREAT FORUM I think that the ones that I am trying to protect against will have a tough enough time with a tough combo lock (plus the Ft. Knox has, like many may, a relocker that will keep it locked if the tumbler is destroyed) 2) I haven't decided on the safe. I think that the Titan would be one hell of a safe with all the features that I want and will last a lifetime.

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Find the hole in the door behind the center of the lock. Insert the key. Turn it the specified number of turns in the specified direction. Find the secondary hash mark on the front of the dial, and using it as your index, and using correct (L) (R) (L) technique, with the appropriate number of intermediate turns, dial in the new combination.

View Quote The S&G 6100 series locks use a small motor (from an automotive rear-veiw mirror) to spin an Acme style lead screw drive. There is a nylon nut that runs off the end of this lead screw, and must engage the threads before it will start moving the bolt back. The electronics fire the motor once for around 1 second to pull the bolt back, wait 6 seconds, then reverses the process to lock. I have never seen the motor run twice, and there is no sensor that detects an opening was successful or not, so trying twice is not part of the logic as I recall. The symptoms you describe don't fit the system configuration, so we need to get more information. It's assumed that the single burst is normal operations, and the double-burst is the abnormal behavior. That could be a bad assumption, but we start there.

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The primary hash mark is at 12 o'clock. The secondary hash mark is at about 11 o'clock. This is the tricky part, because you are so used to using the primary hash mark. What ever you dial on the secondary hash mark will be your new combination. If you screw up, and use the primary, you can figure out what you dialed in on the secondary, but it's confusing, and it is possible to screw up a single digit, or all 3. Pay attention.

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Electronic Safe India

And keep the thread going if there is more to say!!! I remember seeing a friends dad safe about 17 years ago. Him opening it up showing me his.44, his.38, his PPK and on and on and thinking this was the coolest thing ever!! I knew that someday I would want to get one myself and I am luckily in a position now to do it. One thing I like about my S&G dial is you have four levels of securing the safe, depending on your level of security needs at any given time. One very quick and each other one less quick, but more secure.

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